London-based biomaterial company, Modern Synthesis, has raised $4.1M in seed funding to accelerate development of their proprietary microbial textile platform, which employs bacteria to grow a new class of biomaterials, and is aimed at curbing fashion industry emissions and plastic pollution.

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As more than 70% of the fashion industry’s greenhouse gas emissions come from upstream activities, like energy-intensive raw material production, preparation, and processing (McKinsey), coordinated industry action and  innovation is critical. Modern Synthesis’ approach takes inspiration from the ultimate circular economy, life, and in particular the tiny microorganisms that drive the earth’s natural recycling system.

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Building on nearly a decade of research, Modern Synthesis’ technology utilises the ability of bacteria to transform sugar from agricultural waste into nanocellulose, a particularly fine and strong form of cellulose. Their biomanufacturing platform combines the microbe’s growth patterns with cutting edge textile production techniques to create a novel range of natural nonwoven materials that have a distinctive look, feel, and performance potential. 

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Modern Synthesis’ CEO, Jen Keane, has spent her career designing and developing materials for the fashion and sportswear industry. She foresees a change in how products are designed and manufactured as part of the industry’s transition away from fossil fuels to a more circular future. “Fashion needs to decarbonize its existing supply chains in the short term,” explains Keane, “but equally we need new materials and systems that holistically address key challenges related to emissions like plastic and chemical pollution.” Keane is familiar with these challenges from her tenure at Adidas, where she worked on the implementation of the brand’s collaboration with environmental organisation Parley for the Oceans. Parley frames the interrelation of these issues similarly: “we can only end marine plastic pollution in the long run if we invent smarter materials and synchronise the economic system of mankind with the ecosystem of nature." 

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Modern Synthesis sees their microbial textile platform as a key step in addressing these environmental challenges, as well as an opportunity for designers and brands to reimagine the role of materials in the products we use everyday. 

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The journey to develop this platform began with Keane’s 2018 Central Saint Martins MA project, This is Grown. Growing the upper of a shoe with bacterial nanocellulose and one continuous yarn, Keane demonstrated how such technologies enable new design possibilities without compromising sustainability. She collaborated closely with scientists from Imperial College London, including Dr. Ben Reeve, now Modern Synthesis’ CTO. According to Reeve, the possibilities are particularly exciting because “not only are these bacteria very naturally efficient, but we are able to innovate from the organism level to tailor the uniquely versatile material they produce.” 

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The company plans to leverage these microbes to displace a wide variety of both animal and petrochemical derived leathers, textiles and films. The new category of materials they are developing will enable brands to design in new ways without compromising quality or durability.

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With this latest funding round, Modern Synthesis is building a pilot facility in southwest London, increasing their capacity to collaborate with brands and manufacturers aligned in their mission to scale the production of these materials as quickly, widely, and responsibly as possible. 

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‘We’ve been truly humbled by the support we’ve received from the fashion community so far,” Keane shared, “and with this latest investment, we are thrilled to be partnering with a group of investors who share our optimism for a brighter material future and bring a wealth of experience from both biotech and fashion sectors to our team.” 

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Founder of Collaborative Fund, Craig Shapiro, said “we’re eager to support Modern Synthesis on their journey to create next generation sustainable biomaterials that don’t sacrifice quality or creativity.”

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Investors include Collaborative Fund, Acequia Capital, Petri Bio, AgFunder, Ponderosa Ventures, Possible Ventures, IMO Ventures, Taihill Venture, Parley for the Oceans, Climate Capital Collective (C3) and Pierre Denis, the former CEO of Jimmy Choo.

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